Plant Talk Colorado

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09/12/11--11:16: Fall & winter watering (chan 2523974)

In much of Colorado, winters can have extended warm, dry, windy spells. Warm winters without snow appeal to people, but cause winter drought. Trees and shrubs at risk from dry winters include recent transplants, evergreens and shallow rooted species such as lindens, birches, and Norway and silver maples.

Water plants when the leaves start to fall in the autumn to send them into winter with adequate soil moisture. For recent transplants, a soil needle can be used on low water pressure for one minute at each site to water the root ball and surrounding soil. Make injections in a grid pattern one foot apart and nine to 18 inches deep.

Frog-eye type lawn sprinklers can be used to water established trees and shrubs. The most important area to water is from the edge of the branches halfway to the trunk, and the area two to three times that distance out from the edge of the branches. Allow sprinklers to run 30 minutes at each setting.

Monitor weather and soil conditions from November through March. Generally, if four weeks elapse without snow cover, water plants and trees again during these months when temperatures are above freezing and the soil is not frozen. Water early in the day so the water can soak into the ground before freezing nighttime temperatures.

Remember to disconnect and drain hoses after use. Don't activate sprinkler systems during the winter.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Fall and Winter Watering
• The Science of Planting Trees

For more information, see the following Planttalk Colorado™ script(s).

• Fall and Winter Watering: during drought

Fall leaves are a valuable resource because they keep garden soil productive. By following a few tried and true composting techniques, you can optimize fall-leaf composting.

The minimum size for compost bins is three feet by three feet by three feet. Bins larger than six feet across may restrict oxygen infiltration and slow decomposition.

It's best to mix some nitrogen into the leaves as you add them to the compost Leaves are high in carbon, which makes great compost, but they're comparatively low in nitrogen, and that's what decomposing bacteria feed on. You can add nitrogen in the form of fertilizer or fresh green organic matter. Just add one-quarter to one-half cup of standard lawn fertilizer per bushel, or add one part dry leaves with two parts fresh grass clippings or similar green Garden debris. If you use a fertilizer, be sure to select one that doesn't contain any weed killers.

As you add leaves to the compost, moisten them until they're the consistency of a wet sponge. Check the compost regularly and water to maintain adequate moisture content. Moisture is slow to soak through a leaf pile and is essential for decomposition. Be careful not to over-water, because you don't want the leaves to be soggy.

Whole leaves are better for compost than leaves that are shredded or mulched with a lawn mower. Finely chopped leaves may pack down excessively in the compost bin, restricting oxygen infiltration necessary for decomposition.

By following these simple guidelines, you can produce fall-leaf compost by late spring. An unattended a pile of leaves may take two to three years to decompose.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Composting Yard Waste

What causes leaf color to change from green to yellow or red in the fall?

It's a combination of light, temperature and available water. With less light on short days, trees and shrubs return to an energy-saving mode to survive the winter. Short days and falling temperatures signal trees and shrubs to quit producing chlorophyll, which converts sunlight into sugars through a process called photosynthesis.

As chlorophyll breaks down, leaves reflect the remaining leaf pigments that were there all along. Yellow is produced by carotenoids, the same pigment that gives carrots their color. The red color is produced by anthrocyanins.

These pigments, normally masked by chlorophyll, help protect leaves from excessive sunlight. Anthocyanins are actually toxic, and contribute to a plant's natural defense against insects.

Many of our native trees, and trees introduced to Colorado, turn yellow in the fall. Aspen in the high country can turn entire mountainsides golden-yellow. Huge areas are actually clones of the same tree that have spread via underground root suckers.

Moisture during the fall keeps leaves bright and colorful for a longer period of time. When conditions are dry, leaf color fades to brown, and leaves drop quickly. Cooler temperatures also support a longer period of color, which explains why fall color lasts longer in the mountains than along the Front Range.

The normal season for autumn color is September and October. On average, the best color occurs in late September and early October. Of course, with Colorado's temperamental weather, fall color can occur earlier or later.

Squirrels can cause a lot of damage in the Garden. This is especially true in years when untimely spring frosts cause poor Crops of crab apples and other fruits.

In the summer, a squirrel normally eats fruits, berries and succulent plants, and, when available, fungi, insects, animal matter and corn. During the winter, when stored food runs short, squirrels may eat bark. In the spring, squirrels prefer swelling tree buds.

In addition to damaging trees, squirrels also will often eat tulip bulbs and crocus corms. Daffodil bulbs are poisonous to squirrels and generally remain untouched. Lawns also are damaged from squirrels storing and digging for food.

Squirrel populations periodically rise and fall. A squirrel's predators include hawks and owls, but disease, food availability and environmental extremes are bigger factors in population swings.

Controlling squirrels is difficult. A fine wire mesh wrap may be used to protect tulip bulbs, but, in most cases, learning to Garden with squirrels is a necessity. They are protected by law and may only be trapped live and relocated. Repellents are short-term solutions and must be constantly renewed. Tree habitats are difficult to modify to exclude squirrels.

Evergreens normally do shed previous years' needles on a regular basis. Often there can be a "heavy" needle drop on Front Range landscape pines, spruces and firs. The most common causes of excessive needle drop are too-wet and too-dry soils.

Most conifers prefer loose, well-drained soils with plenty of oxygen. When grown in predominantly clay soils, excessive irrigation easily displaces whatever oxygen is available to roots. Too wet soils cause the death of many small roots and root hairs upsetting the shoot-to-root ratio. An affected pine may shed needles that it can no longer support.

Many parts of the Front Range can receive significantly less than average rainfall. Even soils receiving irrigation to maintain turf grass may not have recharged deep moisture. Too dry soils can cause reduced conifer vigor and excessive needle drop.

Landscape managers should water around drip lines during the winter months, using soil needles or sprinklers to recharge soil moisture. Monitor winter weather and snow cover, and water affected conifers during winter dry spells.

Colorado's relatively warm days and cold nights, extreme temperature fluctuations and drying winds can wreak havoc with many of our commonly planted perennials.

Generally, after the first hard frost, the foliage of most perennials starts to die and wither. There are two philosophies on when to remove the dead foliage. One approach is to immediately remove the dead foliage. Many perennials will suffer no harm as a result, as long as you exercise great care when applying mulch. The other approach is waiting until spring to remove dead foliage. Always remove diseased foliage to discourage the spread of leaf-spot diseases and fungal problems.

Dehydration is a common problem when snowless winters occur. A layer of mulch several inches thick helps retain soil moisture. This mulch should be coarse and loose to permit air movement to roots. Root tissues continue to metabolize in the winter and requires oxygen for this process to take place. Reduced soil oxygen level increases the aggressiveness of many soil pathogens. Mulches which pack down should be avoided.

Watering at least monthly under dry winter conditions recharges the soil profile with moisture critical to plant survival.

Whether you decide to remove dead foliage in the fall or wait until spring, mulches provide the best protection for your perennials. Many types of mulches are available, and no matter which you choose, there are a few guidelines you should follow.

Mulches do a better job of insulating plants when space is allowed for air to circulate. Mulch that packs down to a dense mass during winter can cause mildews and molds to form. Shredded leaves from deciduous trees and pine boughs from discarded Christmas trees offer great winter protection. A good organic compost used as mulch is also effective and can be used as a soil amendment in the spring.

Established perennials and bulbs benefit from mulches that are applied after the ground freezes, because mulches don't allow soil temperatures to fluctuate as much throughout the winter.

Mulch should not be removed too early in spring or plants will begin to grow too early. Plants located on the south side of a building or wall will emerge sooner than those in other areas, but may be subject to spring frost damage. Some perennials can be damaged by drying winter winds and western sun. Fencing can be used to effectively to protect plantings.

For "Organic mulches" refer to message number 1609.
For "Xeriscape mulches" refer to message number 1905.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Perennial Gardening
• Mulches for Home Grounds
• Fall and Winter Watering
• Xeriscaping: Creating Landscaping

For more information, see the following Planttalk Colorado™ script(s).

• Perennials: winterizing during drought

To speed the ripening of tomato fruit on the vine, slightly reduce watering. With the forecast of a light frost, protect fruit by covering. If heavy frost is forecast or where covering is not practical, harvest fruit before the frost event and carry indoors.

Pick ripening fruit and green tomatoes with a glossy green appearance that have reached at least three-fourths of their full size. Remove stems. Wash fruit under a stream of water and allow to air dry on a clean towel. Save only blemish-free fruits for ripening indoors.

Fruit does not need light to ripen. One difficulty with ripening tomatoes indoors is controlling humidity. If the humidity is too low, fruit shrivel. If the humidity is too high, fruit molds. Some gardeners simply hang the whole plant upside down in a dark, cool garage or basement to let the fruit ripen gradually. In Colorado, fruit tend to shrivel from the low humidity.

Other options include placing tomatoes one or two layers deep in a covered box for ripening. Some people find better success by individually wrapping fruit in newspaper or wax paper and placing them in a covered box. Placing a few fruit together in a plastic bag has been effective for others. For higher humidity, place tomatoes up to two layers deep in a blanching pan or strainer inside of a covered pan with some water in the bottom. Make sure the fruit does not touch the water.

Ethylene gas produced by ripening tomatoes is a ripening hormone. To speed the ripening process, place a ripe tomato or banana in the container with the fruit. To slow the ripening of green tomatoes, routinely remove ripening fruit from the container.

Green fruit will ripen in about two weeks at 65 to 70 degrees F, and in about 3-4 weeks at 55 degrees F. Storage below 50 degrees F will give fruit a bland, off flavor.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Storage of Home-Grown Vegetables

For more information, see the following Planttalk Colorado™ script(s).

• Tomatoes for home Gardens

When we have heavy snowfalls along the Front Range they are certainly welcome for the moisture they provide and create less need to emphasize winter watering.

Annuals such as petunias and snapdragons may overwinter under snow cover that provided insulation from cold temperatures. Perennials may show little dieback of stems. Remove any dead-brown portions in March/early April. Ornamental grasses can be cut back as usual in March to early April.

Corrective pruning may be needed for trees and shrubs with broken twigs and branches that had to bear heavy snow loads. Many upright junipers can have vertical branches weighed down by snow that won't return to the original position. Correctively prune affected branches by removing back to a vertical shoot. Tying upright junipers in a spiral with loose nylon rope before winter can prevent branch bending.

Small shrubs that are flattened by piles of snow may also need some corrective pruning to remove bent or broken branches. They may have a less-attractive appearance for a couple years.

A Christmas cactus is a colorful addition to houseplant collections and is easy to care for. Christmas cactus is a member of the cactus family, but it doesn't have spines. It also requires more water than its thorny relatives.

Christmas cacti spend most of the year growing long, segmented paddles that branch from low-lying base stalks. Each segment is softly rounded at the tips and sprouts from the center of the segment behind it. This produces hanging, scalloped-shaped branches.

Flowers of the Christmas cactus usually appear during the short days of December. Flowers form at the center of the outermost tip of each branch. Blossoms hang down loosely. Sections of petals fountain out of each other in a long, graceful arc. Bloom size may vary from species to species, but blooms typically range from 1 to 3 inches long.

Christmas cacti thrive in bright, indirect light and require light to moderate waterings.

With proper care, the poinsettias that decorate your home during the Christmas season can retain their beauty for many weeks. For best results, choose plants with deep, dark green foliage and full, undamaged colored leaves, also called bracts. The actual flower is yellow and is located at the base of the bracts. Plants with tightly-closed flowers that have not yet shed pollen will last the longest in your home.

Poinsettias do best in the sunniest part of the home, and need continual bright light to ensure proper growth. Avoid placing a poinsettia near cold drafts, radiators and heat vents. To keep the color of the bracts bright, maintain your poinsettia between 50 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Cooler temperature prolongs bract color, but don't allow it to dip below 50 degrees.

Water poinsettias thoroughly as needed. If your poinsettia is wrapped in a decorative foil, punch holes in the bottom of the foil to ensure proper drainage and removal of excess water.

For long-term maintenance of a poinsettia plant, use a complete fertilizer of equal parts nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium every two weeks. To encourage your poinsettia to re-bloom and obtain the shape you want, prune the plant in early June. At the end of September, place plants in total darkness for 14 hours daily. Colored bracts should begin to appear in early November and be fully expanded by Thanksgiving.

Contrary to popular belief, the flowers and leaves of poinsettia plants aren't poisonous, nor are they edible.

It's likely that anyone who's asked could describe the size, shape, needle length and color of their version of the perfect Christmas tree. Preference and availability of certain kinds of trees varies regionally and no one kind can be considered best.

Desirable tree characteristics include a full, symmetrical shape with limbs strong enough to support lights and ornaments. Non-prickly needles with a healthy green color and pleasant fragrance are important, too.

There are several steps you can follow to keep your Christmas tree fresh for the longest possible time after purchase. First, make a new cut at the end of the trunk about an inch above the old one. Keep the cut end standing in water, whether you decorate the tree immediately or store it to decorate later. If you store the tree, keep it in a cool, shaded place.

Check the tree's water level frequently, and refill as necessary. Fresh evergreen trees can take up an amazing amount of water -- up to a gallon during their first 24 hours off the tree lot. Because many tree stands have small reservoirs, you'll need to fill the reservoir twice daily.

Your tree will last longer indoors if it's located away from direct sun, radiators or heat vents, fireplaces, television sets and other sources of heat. Take care to place your tree in a location that won't block any room exits. Check electric lights to make sure cords aren't frayed or worn, and keep metallic ornaments and tinsel away from bulb sockets. Avoid combustible decorations, and make sure electrical circuits aren't overloaded.

A fresh tree that receives good care should remain in safe condition indoors for ten days to two weeks.

Mealy bugs are white, soft-bodied insects that suck plant juices. They are covered with white, waxy threads that protect them from predators. They are normally found where leaves join stems or along leaf veins, and their feeding will cause leaves to turn yellow and drop.

Plants most commonly affected by mealy bugs include aglaonema, most ferns, some palms, ficus, some draceanas, pothos, philodendron, Norfolk Island pine, schefflera, dieffenbachia, jade plant, African violets, streptocarpus and yucca.

Control mealy bugs by pruning infested branches and removing and destroying heavily infested plants. These pests may also be controlled with insecticidal soap. For heavy infestations, spray a mixture of 10 percent rubbing alcohol and 90 percent water directly onto the insects. For smaller infestations, dab the insects with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Repeat this procedure every week until the bugs are gone. Make sure to test the soap and alcohol mixtures on a small portion of the plant prior to full application because some plants may be sensitive to soap or alcohol.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Insect Control: Soaps and Detergents

Many nurseries offer live, potted Christmas trees including pinyon, ponderosa, limber, Austrian, bristlecone and Scotch pines. Other varieties include blue spruce, dwarf Alberta spruce, white fir and Douglas fir.

These potted trees are usually sold when they are two to six feet tall. Before purchasing one, decide where the tree will be planted after Christmas. Consider the mature size of the tree, and the weight of the potted tree. Most nurseries will hold the tree until you want to take it home.

The two most important factors for successfully growing a live potted tree are to not allow the rootball to dry out and avoid keeping the tree indoors too long. Seven days indoors is a maximum time recommended, but five days is better. Many families have developed a tradition of bringing the tree indoors for decoration on Christmas Eve and planting it outdoors on New Year's Day. It can be helpful to pre-dig the planting hole, as the ground can be frozen in late December and early January. Store the soil backfill in the garage or outdoors in a black plastic bag so it is less likely to freeze.

You can keep the potted tree in the garage for a few days before bringing it indoors, but frequently check the rootball to ensure that it stays moist but not soggy. After Christmas, the tree can again be placed in the garage for a few days before planting outdoors. While indoors, decorate the tree with small lights, which generate less heat, and place it away from sources of heat like fireplaces, heat vents and television sets.

For "Planting trees & shrubs" refer to message number 1711.
For "Fall & winter watering" refer to message number 1706.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Evergreen Trees

• Fall lawn fertilization: Fall is the best time of year to fertilize Colorado's bluegrass lawns.
• Fall planting : In the late summer and early autumn, many nurseries and Garden centers will discount their inventory of trees and shrubs.
• Cover Crops: Cover Crops usually are grown to prevent soil loss from wind and water erosion.
• Pansy: Pansy, a member of the violet family, is a cool-season crop that may be grown in borders, edging and window boxes.

What fertilizers are useful to add to alkaline soils in Colorado?

Fertilizer labels indicate product contents in terms of ratios. A common ratio is 1-3-1. Ratios indicate percentage of ingredients by product weight. Nitrogen represents the first of the three numbers listed on fertilizer products, phosphorous the second, and potassium, or potash, the third. Fertilizer products may contain one, two or all three of these major plant nutrients.

Nitrogen is generally in short supply because plants use it in large amounts. Frequent additions of nitrogen fertilizers are beneficial in all areas of the state.

Phosphorus can be beneficial to soils along the Front Range and mountains of Colorado, particularly in sandy soils. Keep in mind, however, that phosphorous does not move out of the soil like nitrogen, so constant additions are unnecessary.

Soils along the Front Range and in many mountainous areas contain abundant potash, so it's unnecessary to add more.

Our alkaline soils make iron and other micronutrients unavailable to plants. Iron deficiency in plants turns leaves yellow with skeleton-like green leaf veins. Select native or adapted plants that grow well in alkaline soils to avoid iron problems.

Applying fertilizers containing iron to lawns and selected plants results in varying degrees of success. Iron fertilizers come in two basic forms, iron sulfate and chelated iron. Alkaline soils quickly bind iron sulfate, which means little is available to plants. Iron sulfate also leaves rust-colored stains on concrete and other surfaces unless swept away while dry.

Chelated iron products don't bind to alkaline soils. These products are more expensive, but generally the iron is more available to plants. Correcting iron deficiencies is difficult. For best results, choose plants adapted to alkaline soils.

The native fertility of Colorado soils calls for specific kinds of fertilizers. Know what they are so you don't waste money and time applying fertilizers that are useless in our soil conditions.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Biosolids Recycling on Crop- and Rangeland
• Organic Materials as Nitrogen Fertilizers
• Nitrogen Sources and Transformations
• Organic Fertilizers
• Perennial Gardening
• Vegetable Garden: Soil Management and Fertilization

The holidays are over. The Christmas tree is bedraggled and looks like a terrible fire hazard. It's time to get it out of the house, but, please don't just put it out for garbage pickup. Many Colorado municipalities have tree recycling programs. Some have you place them on the curb along with your normal waste pickup. Others have drop-off sites where the trees are chipped and made into mulch, which is available free in the spring. Call your local recycling agency for details.

You can also recycle the boughs and use them as mulch in your own yard. Just cut the boughs off the trunk or larger branches and place them on your perennial beds. The boughs will protect dormant plants from drying out as fast as if they were fully exposed. They'll also keep the plants dormant longer because the soil temperature won't rise as quickly on sunny winter days. Be sure to remove the boughs as the plants start to emerge from dormancy. Then chop boughs into small pieces and add them to your compost pile to provide some acidity.

Boughs are fine for plants that should remain dormant all winter like peonies, hostas and delphiniums, but you don't need boughs for our climate-adapted plants like penstemons, buckwheats or iris. They continue to grow in our sunny winter weather, and are adapted to the vagaries of precipitation our rapidly changing climate offers.

Christmas trees are a wonderful way to start the new recycling year.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Composting Yard Waste
• Mulches for Home Grounds

Typical Front Range winters include periods of warm, windy, low-humidity days with no snow cover and extended dry periods.

Needled and broadleaved evergreens, especially last year's transplants, are very prone to winter desiccation ("winterburn") under these conditions. Transpiration from needles or leaves occurs during warm, dry winter periods. Small "hair roots" may die in dry soils leaving roots unable to replace lost leaf moisture.

The resulting water deficit causes leaf scorch of broadleaf evergreens like Manhattan euonymus, pyracantha, Oregon grapeholly and English ivy. Needled evergreens, especially Dwarf Alberta spruce, certain junipers and arborvitae, may develop extensive needle browning. Pines show needles with a "half green, half brown" look. Desiccation symptoms may be worse on evergreens in difficult sites such as windswept areas, roadsides or medians, southwest sides of buildings, and in limited rooting areas. Symptoms often appear on the most recent growth that is more succulent and prone to drying.

Homeowners should water in fall to send evergreens into winter with good soil moisture. As dry periods in winter become extended, water again. For more detail see CSU Extension fact sheet 7.211 Fall and Winter Watering. Applied in Oct/Nov, anti-transpirant sprays may help to reduce winter desiccation of evergreens.

Note that similar desiccation symptoms can result from root damage caused by certain deicing salts used on nearby sidewalks and roadways.

Many plants native to Colorado are used in residential landscapes, most notably our state tree, the Colorado blue spruce, and the quaking aspen. Plants native to a particular area are well adapted to those soil and climatic conditions. They also resist pest insects and diseases common in that area.

Colorado is a large state with diverse climates and soil conditions. Often, plants from mountain soils that drain well may not grow well in compacted clay soils found in urban areas. A native plant doesn't mean the plant is drought-tolerant. Many native plants of higher elevations require plenty of moisture.

Some trees native to Colorado that are frequently used in the landscape include the limber pine, southwestern white pine, pinyon, bigtooth maple, bristlecone pine, ponderosa pine, Rocky Mountain juniper, hoptree, Douglas fir and white fir.

Shrubs suitable for landscape use such as the lead plant, mountain mahogany, Apache plume, New Mexico privet, rabbitbrush, chokecherry, three-leaf sumac, potentilla, fernbush, Gambel oak, sagebrush, western water birch and western sandcherry are native to Colorado.

For "Xeriscape plant choices" refer to message number 1907.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Xeriscaping: Trees and Shrubs
• Trees and Shrubs for Mountain Areas
• Evergreen Trees

The amount of water a plant requires and uses depends on several factors, including plant species and structure; environmental conditions such as light, temperature and humidity; cultural conditions of the soil; and the type of container used.

Because rigid water scheduling may result in overwatering some plants, while allowing other plants to become excessively dry, you must be prepared to water plants on an individual basis depending on need.

There are several ways to determine when a plant needs water. Although some plants prefer their root systems to become slightly dry before their next watering, it's best to feel the soil on a regular basis and water before any wilting is visible. Other plants require even moisture and do not tolerate dry roots. These plants should be watered when the top layer of soil begins to feel dry.

The most convenient and efficient way to water plants is to pour water on the soil surface. Be sure to completely cover the surface of the soil with water so it does not simply drain down between the potting soil and the side of the pot. Plants don't tolerate waterlogged soil conditions, so don't allow them to stand in water. Plants kept indoors should be placed in saucers or trays to prevent water damage to floors and furniture. Apply just enough water to fill the tray, and discard any water that collects in the tray.

Generally speaking, it's better to water plants from the top than it is to subirrigate. Subirrigation is the process of watering plants by placing pots in a shallow amount of water in a tray or saucer, and allowing the soil to draw water up from the bottom via wicking action. It's acceptable to periodically water subirrigated plants to leach soluble salts from the potting soil.

Brown evergreen needles, needle tips and branch tips are a common sight during the winter and early spring months in Colorado. These are all examples of winter injury usually caused by the drying winds, lack of snow cover, fluctuating temperatures, and low soil moisture that are typical of Colorado's fall and winter seasons.

Evergreen needles transpire or lose moisture during the winter months. To keep functioning well, the plant must replace lost moisture through its roots. But sometimes roots are unable to keep up with the moisture loss, especially in windy conditions when water rapidly evaporates from the needles. In some cases, there's plenty of soil moisture, but plants are unable to absorb it, because the ground is frozen. In other cases, there isn't enough soil moisture available to evergreens. As a result, the needle tissue dries out, turning brown or red.

To reduce or prevent winter injury, water the root area of evergreens during dry fall and winter months. When snowmelt and rainfall are inadequate, apply water monthly during warm periods when the soil can absorb it. Apply mulch over the root zone to help conserve soil moisture and reduce loss from desiccation.

Although it's unattractive, winter injury symptoms are eventually masked in the spring when new growth develops and old needles drop. Affected plant parts don't usually need to be removed.

For "Fall & winter watering" refer to message number 1706.

For more information, see the following Colorado State Extension fact sheet(s).

• Fall and Winter Watering
• Mulches for Home Grounds
• Evergreen Trees

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